An American in Provence

A tradition in Provence is the eating of 13 desserts at Christmas. These symbolize Christ and the 12 Apostles. What the 13 desserts actually are depend on family and region but they are typically:

dried fruit: called les quatre mendiants (the four beggars), by analogy with the habits of the mendicant orders: raisins for the Dominicans, dried figs for the Franciscans, nuts for the Augustines, and almonds for the Carmelites;
the pompe à huile (pastry made with olive oil);
light and dark nougat;
fresh fruit, such as apples, pears, tangerines
dates, calissons (almond paste) from Aix or marzipan.

In December, at our montly Provencal food tasting at my school, we had
a sample of the 13 desserts (above picture).

In Provence, the season actually starts on December 4th, St. Barbe's day. Children wrap wheat or lentil seeds in a damp cloth so that they germinate. The tiny seedlings are transplanted and then placed in a sunny window to grow. The plants portend prosperity for the family during the coming year and are used to decorate the crèche as well as the table for Christmas Eve supper. On Christmas Eve, before leaving for Midnight Mass, the family gathers for the gros souper which celebrates all the things the family is thankful for, yet maintains a religious symbolism. It is composed of seven meatless meals, which represent the seven sorrows of the Virgin Mother. The
table itself is set with 3 white tablecloths and 3 candles, representing the Trinity. The St. Barbe's wheat also decorates the table. Before sitting down to the table, the oldest member and the youngest member of the family walk around the table 3 times carrying a fruitwood log. It is blessed with some of the vin cuit and then placed in the fireplace. After the supper, the Treize Desserts (13 Desserts) are served. This also has a religious meaning, representing all those present at the Last Supper. Before leaving for Midnight mass, the thirteen desserts are set on a clean tablecloth at another table ready for neighbors, beggars or the souls of the ancestors to taste while everyone is at church. The leftover wine is poured on the fire, the log removed, wrapped and put away until next Christmas.
After the mass, the family returns for the "Repas Gras". For this feast, assorted game, a variety of roasts and many different wines from the region are served. On Christmas day, a roast turkey or capon is served and for dessert a bûche de Noël, usually purchased from the local pâtissier is served along with the 13 desserts. After two full days of feasting, a simple bowl of l'aigo bouido - garlic soup - is served for Christmas dinner.

We had Christmas Eve at Alain's parents house. We had a relatively light supper, then walked to the midnight mass (more on that next entry). When we returned we had the 13 desserts, then drove back to Marseille. Christmas Day we went to his Aunt Lydia's house. There we had a huge meal consisting of:
apperitif and hors d'oeuvres
gambas- huge shrimp with homemade mayonaisse
escargot- enough said
sausage and smoked salmon, fish eggs on bread- very salty
homemade ravioli, made by Alain and his cousin Jerome the day before at his grandparent's- a five hour operation
lamb and mushrooms
cheese and fruit
buche de noel (2 types made by Alain's mom)
more 13 desserts

I saw the wheat germs germinating, but no 3 white tableclothes or the parading of the log around the table. All in all, it was a ton of food and we sat at the table for about 6 hours minimum. A good time was had by all.